Rose Gold Engagement Rings
Rose gold is yellow gold with copper in the alloy, and the copper is the whole story. It sets the colour, it makes the metal harder than yellow gold of the same carat, and it is the reason the shade varies so much between jewellers — there is no single standard pink, so two rose gold rings from two workshops can be visibly different. Like yellow gold it is never plated, so the colour is permanent.
The copper content sets the shade, and it is a choice
More copper gives a redder, more coppery tone; less gives a soft blush closer to champagne. An 18ct rose gold is 75% gold whatever the shade, with the remaining quarter mostly copper and a little silver — so the carat is fixed by law and the colour is set by how that quarter is balanced. It is worth seeing a sample of the actual alloy rather than choosing from a photograph, because screens render this metal particularly badly.
What to know about rose gold
- Harder than yellow gold at the same carat
- Copper is a harder metal than the silver and zinc that lighten yellow gold, so an 18ct rose gold band resists scratching and bending better than an 18ct yellow one. It is a genuine practical advantage for a ring worn every day, and it is rarely mentioned.
- Never plated, so never fades
- Unlike white gold, the colour is the alloy and not a coating. A rose gold ring will not fade, wash out or need renewing, and it does not become more or less pink over time. What it does do is pick up the same fine surface scratches as any metal, and a polish restores it.
- It suits warmer stones and vintage settings
- Rose gold does for a slightly warm diamond what yellow gold does, and it sits particularly well with milgrain, engraving and other vintage detailing, where the softness of the colour suits the softness of the work. It is also the natural partner for morganite and champagne diamonds if the centre stone is not going to be white.
- One thing to plan for
- Copper-rich alloys are less forgiving to resize and re-solder than yellow gold, and some become brittle if worked repeatedly. It does not stop a ring being resized, but it is a reason to get the size right at the outset and to have any later work done by a bench that knows the alloy. There is also no platinum equivalent — rose is a gold colour only.
Common questions
Does rose gold fade or lose its colour?
No. The pink comes from copper in the alloy itself rather than from a plating, so there is nothing to wear off. A rose gold ring will look the same in twenty years as it does now, aside from the fine surface scratches any metal picks up, which polish out. This is the main practical advantage it shares with yellow gold and does not share with white gold.
Is rose gold real gold?
Yes. 18ct rose gold is 75% pure gold — exactly the same gold content as 18ct yellow or white gold — and it is hallmarked 750 at the assay office like any other. The difference is only in the remaining quarter of the alloy, which for rose gold is mostly copper.
Why do rose gold rings vary so much in colour?
Because there is no standard for the shade. The carat is fixed — 18ct is 75% gold by law — but how the remaining quarter is split between copper and silver is up to the maker, and more copper means redder. That is why it is worth seeing the actual alloy in person rather than choosing from a screen, which renders this metal especially unreliably.
Is rose gold harder-wearing than yellow gold?
At the same carat, yes, slightly. Copper is harder than the metals used to lighten yellow gold, so an 18ct rose gold band resists scratches and knocks a little better than an 18ct yellow one. The trade-off is that copper-rich alloys are less forgiving to resize and re-solder later, so it is worth getting the size right first time.
Compare the other metals
Still deciding? Bring the question to the counter — the difference between platinum and white gold on a hand is obvious in a second and impossible in a photograph. Book a time, or specify a ring yourself and choose the metal as you go.